Why You Should Test Your Soil?
Far too often, the soil testing process is completely disregarded. For anywhere from $20-40, you can get your soil tested and save time, money, and aggravation by knowing exactly where your lawn’s deficiencies are. Many people focus their efforts trying to figure out what type of grass they have, when the reality is that it will be treated similarly regardless of the grass type. Others keep throwing expensive products at their lawns, hoping for results. This is akin to draining and filling all the fluids in your car without considering when they were last changed and what the current state of the fluids are.
I highly recommend grabbing the book The Lawn Bible by David R. Mellor. David, known as the Senior Director of Grounds for the Boston Red Sox at Fenway Park, describes in the first chapter of his book how lawns are made up of millions of grass plants. He explains that if there are an average of six grass plants to a square inch of lawn, a small 4,000 sq. ft. lawn has over 3 million individual plants! When you think about it through that lens, your perception may change, and you may start to understand why soil health is so important for healthy lawn growth.
At-home DIY soil test kits can provide valuable insights into your lawn’s condition, helping you create a personalized and customized lawn care plan so that you can make informed decisions about fertilization and treatments. The products you find at big box retailers are often made with a “one size fits all” mindset. I recommend buying your products from a landscape supply store that has a broader range of SKUs with differing levels of product proportions in each package to meet your specific needs. As you address factors that are too high or too low, you will likely start to experience a healthier, more disease-resistant lawn that will become lower maintenance over time. This process can take a few years, so be patient!
Here are some of the things a soil test measures:
pH Level: Determines whether the soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline, which can affect nutrient availability. For the most common grass types, the ideal pH level is generally considered to be slightly acidic, between 6.0 and 7.0 on the pH scale. Anything higher or lower can affect your lawn. A pH level between 6.7 and 7.3 means your soil is neutral. Applications of products such as lime or sulfur can help a lawn with unbalanced pH. Symptoms of an unbalanced pH level in your lawn might be a thin, discolored lawn that does not grow well. Your lawn is considered acidic when it falls below 6.7, and lime treatment may be beneficial. Your lawn is considered alkaline when it rises above 7.3, and sulfur treatment may be beneficial.
Macronutrient Levels: Measures nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) to assess essential nutrient deficiencies. Have you ever seen three numbers on your bags of fertilizer? For example, if your bag of fertilizer says 19-0-6, the interpretation is that the bag is 19% N, 0% P, and 6% K, with the rest of the bag consisting of filler materials that help distribute the nutrients evenly. Last fall, for example, I used a soil test and discovered that my pH levels were a little low, my nitrogen levels were a little high, and my potassium levels were very low. I decided to apply lime to raise my pH and applied a 0-0-62 muriate of potash product, and my grass was looking healthy as ever heading into the winter months.
Organic Matter Content: Some tests indicate how much decomposed organic material is in the soil, affecting water retention and microbial activity. If your soil test reveals low organic matter, there are several steps you can take, including using soil amendment products, adding compost, using cover crops, applying manure, or applying mulch. Each of these approaches has its pros and cons, and which approach you take will depend on whether soil fertility, soil structure, water retention, and/or microbial activity are the issues.
Soil Texture: Basic tests can help determine if your soil is sandy, loamy, or clay-heavy, influencing drainage and aeration needs. Soil textures vary across the U.S. due to differences in climate, vegetation, and land use. In the Northeast, for example, the ideal soil texture is loamy soil. We benefit from a balanced mix of sand, silt, and clay, which provides good drainage and nutrient retention. If your lawn is too sandy, you might add compost, manure, peat moss, or mulch. If your lawn is too clay-heavy, you might add amendments such as gypsum or pine bark, but avoid adding sand as it can create a concrete-like texture.
Micro and Secondary Nutrients: Some kits might get more granular than others and test for other elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and sulfur.
Salinity & Contaminants: Some kits can detect salt buildup or harmful heavy metals
A traditional DIY kit is good enough for general guidance without getting too crazy or scientific. Use Google or ChatGPT to help analyze the results and come up with an action plan. Alternatively, professional lab tests are available at a higher cost and can provide a more comprehensive analysis and specific recommendations for amendments based on your lawn’s needs. I find the cheapest way to get your soil tested is to Google your local agricultural extension office or nearby universities that might perform soil testing for a reasonable fee. In my region, the University of Massachusetts Amherst has a program that is very low cost. It is currently $20 for a routine analysis, with add-ons at various prices for organic matter, soluble salts, and nitrates. What you don’t want to buy are the very cheap soil test kits available at garden centers, nurseries, and big box retailers. Generally, these kits only tell you what the pH of your lawn is.
Tips for Taking Samples
The soil test will generally come with a set of sample collection guidelines, but here are a few general practices:
Dos
Buy a Soil Probe: Some kits will come with a probe for an added fee, or you can buy a probe on Amazon. While it is not necessary, I highly recommend buying one. A probe will help you grab samples at the perfect depth and significantly speed up the process. Ideally, you want to grab 10-12 subsamples from random spots in your lawn that you want to address at a depth of 4-6 inches. Get a couple of samples from every 1,000 square feet of lawn space.
Break Up Lumps or Clods of Soil: Remove grass, stones, roots, and debris contained within each sample and thoroughly mix the small subsamples together. You don’t want any non-soil matter to impact results. Scoop out what you need for your sample and allow it to air-dry on a clean sheet of paper.
If Planting New Grass Send Sample One Month Prior: Send off your sample roughly a month before you plan to plant new grass, but be careful taking the sample around fertilizer treatments (see comments on this in the Don'ts section). Sending it off early allows time for the results to come back so that you have time to make corrections to pH and other levels before planting new grass seed.
Don'ts
Where and When to Avoid Sampling: Avoid plot edges and other non-representative areas. Avoid sampling when the soil is very wet and do not submit wet soil samples. Avoid sampling within six to eight weeks after a lime or fertilizer application.
Don’t Use Old Rusty Tools or Tools That Have Touched Fertilizer: It’s easy to contaminate your soil sample. Use clean tools. If you don’t buy a probe, as suggested above, use a clean trowel or shovel and a clean container for the soil.
Don’t Send in Only One Test if You Are Trying to Address Certain Concerns: If you have an area where the grass won’t grow or seeds won’t take, send in a sample from just that area so that you can target it specifically. Also, if you have a massive lawn, you may want to break up the lawn into sections and send in samples from the front lawn separately from the back, for example. For the average lawn, one sample is generally good enough.
Where to Buy A Kit
Amazon: Amazon offers a wide variety of soil test kits, including highly-rated options. These kits are praised for their accuracy, ease of use, and comprehensive result. MySoil Soil Test Kit is the highest rated currently based on ease of use, accuracy, comprehensive analysis, quick turnaround, and tailored recommendations. The cons reported are cost, the need to purchase a probe separately, and occasional mailing issues. Despite the cons, I believe the pros far outweigh the cons with this kit.
YardMastery.com: YardMastery has a nice, easy to use soil test kit. The turnaround time can be a little long depending on your location and the company does push its own product based on the results. My advice is to take the results and use Google or ChatGPT to analyze your results, then find products best suited to meet your needs. A landscape supply store has experts that can likely help you find the right products.
Local Agricultural Extension Offices: Many local agricultural extension offices provide soil testing services at a reasonable fee. This can be a cost-effective and reliable option, especially if you prefer professional lab analysis.
University Programs: Some universities, like the University of Massachusetts Amherst, offer soil testing programs that are low-cost and provide detailed analysis. This is a great option if you want a thorough and professional assessment.
Conclusion
Testing your soil is a crucial step in achieving a healthy, vibrant lawn. By understanding your soil's specific needs, you can make informed decisions about fertilization and amendments, ultimately saving time and money. Whether you choose a DIY kit or a professional lab test, the insights gained will help you create a tailored lawn care plan that promotes long-term health and resilience. Happy lawns = happy dads.
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